Monday, November 9, 2009

Pao de Queijo (Jardins)

Pao de Queijo
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1408
Jardins (near Oscar Freire)

After reading all of the reviews of this tiny little bakery, I had to try the most famous pao de queijo in Sao Paulo. So, wandering around my neighborhood one day, I finally stopped in.

Short review: The pao de queijo really is delicious. It's very artsy in its shape...not the regular rolled-up-in-a-ball pao. It's free-form, huge, and cheesey. I got two, but could've managed with just one. Make sure to get them when they're fresh. :)

Ping Pong (Itaim Bibi)

Ping Pong
Rua Lopes Neto, 15
Itaim Bibi

I'd been wanting to try out this dim sum restaurant for while...ever since I read a review of it on Alexandra Forbes' blog, Brazil for Insiders. Finally, last weekend, some friends and I finally met for a late lunch at the new eatery.

The menu is fun...especially the drinks. With ingredients like lemongrass and goji berries, the non-alcoholic drinks are original and refreshing. On a hot day, they're perfect. They also have "flowering" teas and a menu of party-named cocktails. It would be a shame to order water or Coke in this place!

We were starving when we sat down, so we ordered some wasabi peas and candied pecans to start. We were all being very polite with how much we took, but I think each of us could have eaten the entire bowls all alone!

But on to the dumplings...we each chose two dishes and shared them among the four of us. Our favorites were the seafood sticky rice, the pork shu mai, prawn toast, and the grilled pork. The only problem we had was that each order came with only 3 "unidades", or pieces. So, we suggest only bringing 2 friends with you to lunch. (Or some multiple of 3!) Needless to say, we ordered more when the first round was done. The meal was so tasty...flavors you don't get to eat everywhere in Brasil.

The restaurant itself is chic and beautiful...very modern and sleek. The chairs are actually stools, and they come with a little shelf underneath on which to put your purse. The service was quick and friendly. You can even sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work.

My only gripe is that it is a bit pricey...we each spent about $50 for lunch...not THAT bad, but the portions are small and you'll want to eat a lot! The waiter suggested to order 4-5 dishes per person...and if you're hungry, that's not a bad suggestion.

We left the restaurant talking about how we would come back soon. :)

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Pasquale (Pinheiros)

Pasquale
Rua Amália De Noronha, 167 - Pinheiros
http://pasqualecantina.com.br/

I am on a quest to try as many of what Comer e Beber claims are "the best" restaurants in SP. After a long break from eating out (actually, eating at all, but that's another story), some friends and I headed to Pinheiros to Pasquale, which was voted the best "Italian Cantina" in SP.

Being gringoes, I love the fact that I rarely need to make a reservation because I tend to go out to eat on the early side for Paulistas! We got there about 8 pm...many open tables. By the time we left at 10 pm, there were about 40-50 people waiting for a spot. Talk about good timing.

There are lots of good things about Pasquale. The best, though, is the antepasto bar. You are able to order just what you want of everything. Highlights of the things we tried:

Berinjela Barese - sliced eggplant with tomato sauce, capers and anchovies
Involtine Pimentão - Grilled red peppers wrapped around anchovies
Caponata - absolutely divine eggplant spread
Alcachofra - Corações de alcachofrinha em azeite - Artichoke hearts in delicious olive oil

We also tried some sausage slices, which were just the right amount of spicy. So good. The antepastos are accompanied by baskets of fresh bread.

You can choose your pasta (spaghetti, penne, rigatoni, or orichetti), and your sauce. Between the four of us, we tried the pesto, the carbonara, and the putanesca. the pasta itself was outstanding...just tastes so fresh. The carbonara, however, was the best of the three sauces...complex flavors that just worked together.

For dessert, we had the chocolate cake with apricot ice cream. Perfect. We also had the fresh pineapple...nothing special, but was actually very refreshing and a nice compliment to the richness of the chocolate cake.

Pasquale is not "cool" or "hip" or "happening". But it is simple, delicious, and relaxed. A great place to go when you want to sit for a while and have a nice fresh bowl of pasta.

The Blue Pub (Bela Vista)

The Blue Pub (Bela Vista)
Alameda Ribeirão Preto, 384 - Bela Vista
http://www.thebluepub.com.br/

I read about this place online and it's only a few blocks from my apartment (on the Centro side of Paulista), so there was really no excuse not to check it out. What really interested me were two items on the menu: Chili Cheese Fries and Buffalo Wings. Both did not disappoint! The Chili Cheese Fries were absolutely delicious...beans and meat (not too spicy, but just spicy enough to satisfy the "I need some different flavors in my life" craving) with deliciously and perfectly melted cheese, all on top of tasty fries. It kind of reminded me of "wet fries" with gravy. It's a huge plate...makes a good appetizer or a good meal for two to share.

The buffalo wings were tasty, too. Nothing like the States, but a really good effort...huge plate of wings and drumettes, with an accompanying tangy bbq sauce. The only thing missing was celery and bleu cheese. Again, a good appetizer or big enough for two people to share (or one hungry guy to have by himself!)

The Blue Pub itself is small...there are darts and a pool table. It's nothing too fancy, but a good place to satisfy that "American Bar" craving and have a cold beer. I will definitely be back.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Aska Lamen House (Liberdade)

466 Rua Galvão Bueno
Liberdade

I love this place for many reasons...One, it's the only place in Sao Paulo I even know to go to for a bowl-o-Japanese noodles. Two, it's cheap. You can get out of there, stuffed, for 20 Reais. Three, it's delicious. Four, once you get a table (you could wait 30 minutes-1 hour!!), it's really quick!

I also love the rules on the front of the menu...it's such a small restaurant by Brasilian standards that they are like Japanese restaurant czars about their seating and eating policy. I wish I had taken notes...but things like...if you are two people, sit at the counter, not at a table; on the weekends, you might have to share a table; only one refill of broth (but not on the weekends or holidays), and some other weird stuff I have never heard of in a restaurant, but I think is standard for Japanese restaurants?

The menu is not really that understandable if you are not Brasilian or Japanese, but I really don't think you can go wrong with any of it! The guioza is delicious (some of the best I have had in SP, I think), and Mary K. told us how to create the best dipping sauce...1 part soy, two parts vinegar, and a little bit of the hot stuff. It made all the difference!

This is a place to frequent, if you don't mind the wait and rush...because the big bowl-o-noodles will keep you full all day long. :)

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Frevo (Jardim Paulista)

Frevo
Rua Oscar Freire, 603
Jardim Paulista
Multiple Locations
http://www.frevinho.com.br/

This fancy lanchonete is famous for its roast beef beirute sandwich...and sandwich in a pita. I went for the classic, the first thing on the menu. Simple...just pita bread, roast beef, melted cheese, tomato and oregano. The whole sandwich is toasted in the oven. In my opinion, and could've been just the night we were there, it was nothing special. In fact, it was really dry and I needed to put hot sauce and ketchup on it to give it some taste. It was disappointing.

However, the burger...specifically the cheeseburger with grilled onion that I split with Janhavi...was one of the best burgers I have had in Sao Paulo. The bread is soft and fresh, and the meat is tasty...the onions were grilled just right, and the burger seemed to literally melt in my mouth.

We also ordered fries for the table..fresh and just right blend of soft and crisp. And everyone ordered fresh juices, which were sweet and cold and really hit the spot. Strange thing, though...only Coke and Guarana on the soft drink menu.

I will dreaming about the burger tonight...and I think I will try to find a better beirute somewhere else.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Black Dog (Jardins)

Black Dog
Alameda Joaquim Eugenio Lima, 612
Various Locations
http://www.blackdog.com.br/

Quite possibly the most interesting hot dog I have ever had. Still trying to decide it if it was delicious or disgusting. In my defense, I really only ate at Black Dog because it is situated on Eugenio Lima, where I really wanted to scope out some buses that pass by there. I was specifically looking out for the 669A, which goes straight down Santo Amaro from there. Unfortunately, there wasn't a parada (stop) there like I thought, but it was still a thrill to see the bus go by, knowing that I don't have to walk all the way to Brigadeiro Luiz Antonio to catch a bus to Moema. But back to the dog.

Here is what comes on the dog:
Two hot dogs (your choice of regular, spicy, soy, or chicken), sliced open. Vinaigrette. Cheddar cheese. Corn. Mayonnaise. Requeijao. Crispy potatoes. Parmesan encrusted mashed potatoes. Chopped tomatoes. Oregano.

The best part? The bread. And the parmesan-encrusted mashed potatoes. Surprisingly gourmet and delicious. Not disgusting! All of the other stuff...well, I admit I fore-went the mayonnaise and requeijao...it just seemed that it would be tooooo creamy....and gross. I only got a mini, and I didn't eat the whole thing. And I just don't get it...who thought of of putting it all together like that???? I know who. Drunk people.

Black Dog is open 24 hours for a reason...and the "praia" of bars across the street are probably what keeps this particular location in business. I'll definitely take my drunk friends here. And they will love it. And they will be soooo Sao Paulo. :)

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Lanchonete da Cidade (Jardins)

Al Tietê, 104
Multiple Locations
http://www.lanchonetedacidade.com.br/

I don't LOVE this place, but I like it a lot. It's fun. It's spacious. There are always romantic couples, groups of business men, families with young kids, and tables of teenagers out on the town hanging out at this throwback 50s diner-type restaurant. The burgers are okay...I tend to get the Bom Bom every time I go. It's a tasty burger on a nice French bun. But really, the best reason to go to LdC are the fries and onion rings. Specifically, the Rustic Potatoes (Batatas Rusticas on the menu) are crispy fried rounds surrounded by rosemary and roasted garlic. I could (and have) eaten an entire portion all by myself. The onion rings are also really special...little and crispy. Save some to put on your burger, if you can...although it might be not be possible b/c they are so delicious. I am pretty sure that there are better burgers in town, but for a big group of people (and even vegetarians!), this is a fun place to head out for dinner.

Sottozero (Jardins)

Multiple Locations
http://www.sottozero.com.br/


I admit, I was a skeptic. I am an ice cream snob and I really hate BAD, artificial-tasting fake ice cream. So when Sottozero was suggested over my fave place to get something cold for dessert, I went kicking and screaming. I'm glad we took the long walk down Augusta. :)

First, Sottozero isn't ice cream. It's Italian Gelato. In Austin, Texas, I was loyal to Teo, the local gelataria that I believe has the best gelato in the city. Sottozero, although a chain, and not quite as quaint or homey, has 5x as many flavors. I didn't taste all of them, but there wan't a bad one that I did taste.

Mostly, I was interested in the "natural yogurt" flavor, because that's the Yogurberry taste I am into these days. While the texture was different, the taste was quite similar. And for 9 Reais, you can get a lot more for your money. I'm not exactly sure how natural it is, but it tasted pretty fresh. I would definitely get it again. I complemented it with mango, which was, literally, like eating a mango. It was a perfect dessert.

There is a location in Shopping Ibirapuera among other places around the city, and I will definitely head back.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

O'Malley's (Jardins)

O'Malley's
Alameda Itu 1529
http://www.omalleysbar.net/

The strangest thing...Cristina, Janhavi and I went to watch the Michigan State vs. Louisville game here today. I thought for sure that it would be crowded with Americans wanting to watch the Elite Eight. Guess what? We were the only ones there for the game! I was in shock...are there no American college basketball fans in SP?

Well, besides that fact that I had a financial interest in who won the game (I've got money in the March Madness pool at work), it's the Chicken Tikka Masala that got me back to O'Malley's. A few months ago, we went there for Mary's birthday and discovered the R$23 HUGE plate of flavorful goodness and yellow rice. Clearly, O'Malley's is not an Indian restaurant, but they do a decent job with it...and the fact is, it's nice just to taste some FLAVOR in your food once in a while...Brasilian food just doesn't have that kick that a good curry can give you.

Cristina ordered a veggie wrap...her big question was "Where are the veggies?". Janhavi and I also ordered a Blue Bull wrap...steak strips with bleu cheese, lettuce, and some kind of sweet chutney. It was good, despite the fact that the cook thinks it necessary to put mayonnaise on the tortilla to "glue" it together. Or for some other reason, of which we're not quite sure.

Don't miss: The homemade potato chips. Reminiscent of Terra Chips from the States. Delicious.

Oh, and as far of the rest of the bar...pretty waitresses who really aren't that smart. They don't serve beer in the right beer glass, and not all of the beers that are on the menu are actually ON the menu. I think it's a strange place, but it has served its purpose when we've needed it.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Tadashii (Morumbi)

Tadashii
Rua Jamanari, 40 Panamby (Morumbi)
http://tadashii.com.br/

It's Japanese, it's sushi, it's a 40 Real Rodizio. In short, while it's not the BEST sushi place I've been to in SP, so far I've been there twice and it's been consistently good. A little more expensive than the typical all-you-can-eat, but worth it b/c the place is nice and the fish tastes just a little fresher. The menu is huge, and you even get dessert with the rodizio. There's a pretty patio, too.

Still not sure what the girls in the Japanese dresses DO exactly, but they're fun to watch. And there's a unnervingly high waiter:patron ration...odd.

In Janhavi's and my opinion, it's the best sushi you can get on this side of the river.

Opens at 7. Closed Mondays

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Cafe Suplicy (Jardins)

Cafe Suplicy
Rua Alameda Lorena 1430 (+4 other locations)
http://www.suplicycafes.com.br/index-en.htm (cool website)

Very simply...the coffee shop for the cool kids. I've been here a few times, and each time I am impressed by the folks inside...ranging in age from young 20s to to late 60s...it's cool for everyone. Especially good place to hang out before shopping at Santa Luzia, which is right across the street. The tables are a bit small, but coffee is good (check their website, in English, for details about what makes their coffee so special), and the service is friendly. I had an empanada de carne the other night...not sure where they get them, but it was one of the most delicious empanadas I have ever had!

Only one cash register, so if there's a line, you're gonna wait a while. :(

Cachoeira Tropical (Itaim Bibi)

Cachoeira Tropical
Rua Joao Cachoeira 275
http://www.cachoeiratropical.com.br/restaurante.htm

Carol, Mary, and I ventured to Itaim to eat brunch in this all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet restaurant on the recommendation of Carol's dentist, who works in the area. For a place that looks like it belongs in a hospital or high school cafeteria, this restaurant kind of surprised me. Most of all, I was psyched for Mary, who is a vegetarian...it was a great choice for her in this meat-centered city.

It really doesn't look like much from the outside OR inside. A little dingy, old furniture...something from the 80s. But head into the second room towards the back, and...there's the food (same furniture and bad lighting, unfortunately). Two full buffet counters of vegetarian food...one whole side of salad stuff (including veggie sushi), and one whole side of beans, rice, feijoada (carrots and brussel sprouts!), and various meat-substitute items. Plus, there's a "hot food" table with pastas, veggie kibe, pizza, and surprisingly good and spicy veggie sausage.

This place was CROWDED. And interestingly enough, thre were people pf ALL ages in the restaurant...a lot of OLD people, plus young hipsters, families, and lots of kids. (Kids under 8 eat for 1/2 price, by the way.)

My opinion:if you have 15 Reals, this is the place to spend it. All you can eat, HEALTHY, filling, hearty, and mostly tasty eats. Drinks (filtered water, natural juice, coffee, tea) are included, as is the entire dessert buffet (fresh fruit, cakes, puddings, and fresh ice cream). I don't know if I would be rushing back there anytime soon without a vegetarian friend to take...but if you have non-meater in your life AND/OR you are on a budget, this is the place to go.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Bistro da Sara (Bom Retiro)

Bistro da Sara
Rua da Graca 32
Bom Retiro
no website


Would a restaurant by any other name be as delicious? I have to admit, I might have a SLIGHT bias towards loving this little restaurant b/c of the name (spelled without an -h and everything!). Regardless, it's a little gem in a sketchy hood, and I love it.

Sarah and Bill first took Pedro and me to this small bistro (I am not sure what makes a bistro a bistro, but this is definitely a bistro) on a downtown weekend outing back in October. Since we live in Morumbi, it truly was an outing for us...considering that the nearest metro is Luz Station. I don't remember being particularly impressed the first time I was there...I mean, I remember it being good, but nothing spectacular. I think I just didn't know Brasilian food then, and I didn't have a concept of what "good value" in this city. And for 30 Reals/person, this is the best deal in the neighborhood.

The buffet itself is beautiful (as is the cute little restaurant...not a lot of space, but used creatively and brightly painted), with its beautiful bowls and multi-level presentation. It's the little things that make a difference, no? Especially when you are eating a buffet. There are cold and hot dishes...on my last visit, the most memorable taste was homemade root-vegetable chips, bean salad, and brisket on the bone. You can also order grilled meat, but, honestly, who needs it? There are about 15 different choices on the buffet already! Make sure you save room for the grilled pineapple and banana for dessert, though...served with cinammon and honey, it's the perfect ending to a delicious meal.

I can't wait to go back.

Notes: Last time I was there, only debit cards were accepted. Not sure, but I think you can bring your own wine.

Padaria Benjamin Abrahão (Jardins)

Padaria Benjamin Abrahão
Rua Jose Maria Lisboa, 1397
Jardins
http://www.benjaminabrahao.com.br

Janhavi and I "discovered" this beautiful Padaria in Jardins one Sunday afternoon while looking for the perfect place to have some coffee and brunch. Once we got closer, I realized that this was the bakery that had been voted "best padaria" in SP. Within a few moments, we discovered why.

First of all, it's really pretty. There's a beautiful terrace upstairs and it's the perfect place to watch the world go by, feel the breeze in your hair, and sip on a capuccino. Maybe you'd like to enjoy breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just some delicious and fresh baked goods. It's all there, with friendly service, tasty cakes, and the feeling of being one of the "cool kids". Lots of couples gazing into each other's eyes, and babies sipping on bottles. If I lived in this neighborhood, this would be my place to hang.

Yogurberry (Jardins)

Yogurberry
Alameda Lorena 1428
Jardins
http://www.yogurberry.com/

A few years ago, my friend, Tracy, took me to Pinkberry in LA. Pinkberry was calling itself "frozen yogurt", but there was some controversy over whether or not it WAS actually yogurt (live culture count, science talk, etc.). I don't remember the details, but just wikipedia-d it and found out that Pinkberry changed their recipe to meet the "yogurt standard" in April of 2008. That being said, I was excited to see the appearance of a similar franchise in my favorite neighborhood.

Not much on the menu...Original Yogurt or Green Tea...small, medium, large....and your choice of fresh fruit on top. The best words I can use to describe it? Healthy, delicious, refreshing. You can enjoy a frozen treat without all of the guilt that usually goes along with dessert at the end of the night.

The storefront itself is tiny, the lighting is bright, and the seating is limited. My suggestion: Get a large and take it to go...you'll be craving more by the time you get back to the Metro.

Pros: Zero fat, fresh fruit, "good bacteria", 100% natural

Marcel (Jardins)

Marcel
Rua da Consolação, 3555
Jardim Paulista
http://www.restaurantemarcel.com.br

Tried this restaurant this evening on account it was part of Restaurant Week. Very surprised to find that it was actually attached to a hotel (Quality Inn). Small menu, and expensive. Very formal dining room that reminded me of someplace I might go to meet my boyfriend's parents. In a nutshell, the food was just "okay", and the place was stuffy. Perfect if you're over the age of 45, I think. Otherwise, find something a little more hip to satisfy your craving for anything French. Passed Le Vin on my back to the car...the place was hopping and would love to check out why. :)

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Emporio Santa Maria (Pinheiros)

Emporio Santa Maria
Av. Cidade Jardim 790
Pinheiros
www.emporiosantamaria.com.br

If you have 450 Reals so spend on a Panettone, this is the place to shop. But here's a cool discovery: Santa Maria has a wine shop inside, and you can go and buy a bottle of wine and drink it right there in the little lounge/cafe area. A cheaper alternative to going out to a bar (although the wines ARE on the expensive side) before dinner. And, if you are like me, and like to go out to dinner on the early side, the restaurants and bars aren't EVEN OPEN yet, but this place is. Plus, if you don't finish the bottle, you just cork it up and take it home. :)




Nam Thai (Itaim Bibi)

Nam Thai
Rua Manuel Guedes, 444
Itaim Bibi
http://www.namthai.com.br

As far as I know, there isn't a huge Thai population in SP. Which is unfortunate, b/c I love Thai food! The rich, intense, and explosive flavors of Thai food just don't exist in Brazilian cuisine, so I couldn't wait to experience different tastes for a change. I had heard from folks that Thai food in SP was expensive, but really, it's not that much more than you would spend in any other upscale restaurant...and until there is a dive-y Thai place in SP, the fancy place will have to do.

Again, another case of the restaurant itself being really modern and beautiful. There's a bar and a small seating area where you can wait for your table. There's a also a private-ish back room where we ended up sitting with our table of 8. We felt like we were having our own little dinner party, which was great, but it also might have been nice to feel the energy and buzz of the main room.

While we went during Restaurant Week, the menu was quite limited, and since it was a special occasion, we were ready to splurge a little and order off the actual menu. We started out with what they called "Dim Sum" on the menu, but were really just dumplings. No different than any gyoza dumplings you would get a sushi rodizio, and at 8 reals for 2 of them, not really worth it.

Janhavi and split 2 dishes...Pad Thai w/Shrimp (the dish by which I pretty much judge all Thai restaurants...if they can't do that, what CAN they do????), and Beef Massaman. I was shocked at how big the portions were! We could barely finish both dishes between the two of us, and I think we did so only because we felt so guilty leaving the food on the plate with all its glorious flavor! We did have to ask for lots of extra white rice (not a standard accompaniment in these parts, I guess) to soak up the sauce. The Massaman was extremely flavorful and rich, although I do wish it had more potatoes and carrots along with the beef. The Pad Thai was good with a little lime on top, and while it wasn't the BEST Pad Thai I have ever had, it totally passed the test. Again, it was a joy to have those flavors again!

Cristina had the Tom Kha Soup (again, a dish by which I judge an entire restaurant). Extremely flavorful, but did not appear to be strained in any way from all of the bits you DON'T eat in the soup. Probably something you would want to share rather than eat an entire bowl -- definitely big enough to do so!

All in all, Nam Thai gave me hope for non-Japanese Asian food in this city. I am anxious to try other places to compare and report back.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Arabia (Jardins)

Arabia
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1397
Cerqueira Cesar (Jardins)
http://www.arabia.com.br


It's Restaurant Week in SP, and that means a few things. One, cheap eats. Well, it's SP, so it's not THAT cheap. But we're talking 40 Reals for a 3 course dinner where normally it would cost you maybe twice that. It also means trying some new restaurants out...and exploring some culinary paths less taken.

Some friends and I went to Arabia, on Haddock Lobo, on Wednesday night. Mary is a vegetarian, so I thought a Middle Eastern restaurant would be perfect. Also, it's been voted "Best Arabic Food" in Veja, so I thought it would be good to judge for myself.

Personally, I don't get why Middle Eastern food is so expensive here. It was good, but I am not sure that it is worth what it costs at some of these high-end restaurants. At Arabia, I think you are paying a lot for the location and decor. It's beautiful. The service is spectacular (although ours got off to a rocky start), and there are cloth napkins (my sign for a classy place).

There was a choice of 5 appetizers, 5 entrees, and 2 desserts for Restaurant Week.

Let's start with dessert. One of the choices was cardamom ice cream. I know, sounds gross. When I think of cardamom, I think of Turkish coffee. I don't like Turkish coffee. But let me tell you...this was fresh and delicious...like no other flavor of ice cream I have ever had. Janhavi, however, has visited India many times (her parents are from there), and she noted that it tasted just like ice cream that she has had in India...reminiscent of other flavors like rosewater. In fact, Arabia does have rosewater ice cream on the menu...and I bet it's phenomenal.

Pedro and I shared two small pastries..the pistachio filled one was a bit dry and chewy, despite the sugary-sweet syrup we poured all over it. The little ones (I don't know what they were, but there were 3 of them, looking like small cigars) were tasy and BUTTERY. Which, of course, made them all the more delicious.

Appetizers:
Kibe Cru - "The most famous dish in the restaurant"
Roughly translated as "raw beef". Sort of wish I had known that before we ordered it. Janhavi called it "the ceviche of meat". :) I don't believe I have had anything like it (although there is a raw meat dish served in Ethiopian restaurants) and probably won't be rushing to order it again. But it was tasty once you mixed it with the onions and chives. The bread basket is quite generous too...crisp flat breads and fresh pita (in plastic bags...why?). It's almost like having a bowlful of tortilla chips at the table.

Mhamara
Some kind of veggie puree with nuts, green peppers, and special spices. Probably the tastiest thing we had...so flavorful. A step up from hummus.

Falafel
Tasty, but tiny.

Main Dishes:

Kafta: 2 hot dog sized kabobs. I could have eaten a third one!

Grape Leaves: Small. Wouldn't rush to order them again. Would be good as an appetizer to share, though.

Cubed chicken on a stick: Succulent and flavorful. Only complaint? Not enough!

Trigo com lentilha (grains with fried onions and nuts): Best entree. But probably more like a side dish for everyone to share. Flavorful...of course, it has fried onions!

Sides: Lebanese potatoes were the big hit at the table. Again, my only complaint was that the portion was small. But the potatoes are whipped and buttery, then baked, I think. Scrumptious. The rice (arroz com Aletria) was nothing special.

Thank you, Restaurant Week, for letting me afford to try an otherwise pricey restaurant. I'm looking now for some cheap eats in the way of Middle Eastern food...I caught a glimpse of the REGULAR menu on my way out, and that meal would have cost us upwards of 75-90 Reals a person had it not been a promotion. In my opinion, not worth the cost...you can get a lot more for a lot less somewhere else. Stay tuned.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Deli Paris (Vila Madalena)

Deli Paris
Rua Harmonia, 484
http://deliparis.com.br/

I LOVE this place. Maybe it's because I have spent an inordinate amount of time here coffee and eating sweets while waiting out rainstorms in Vila Madalena. It's a true French cafe, with fresh, crusty breads and cases full of cakes and sweets. You'll have the most difficult time deciding what to pick, so bring a friend with whom to share. Recent visits have included the chocolate/lemon tart, the banana/chocolate tart, chocolate eclair, a mont blanc. None have disappointed.

The service is friendly, the tables are cozy, and it's a great place to watch the rain come down. Hurry!

N'o Cafe (Vila Madalena)

N'o Cafe
Rua Harmonia, 506
Vila Madalena
http://www.no-cafe.com/

Aoyama Temaki Hall (Itaim Bibi)

Aoyama Temaki Hall
Rua Adolfo Tabacow, 269
Itaim Bibi
no website

This place was such a find that the first time I went, I returned less than 3 days later. I have to admit, the only reason we went in the first place was because its "big sister" sushi restaurant (Aoyama, around the corner on Mario Ferraz) was packed and we did not feel like waiting. That's not to say that sometimes there isn't a wait out the door (the restaurant doesn't have THAT many tables, although there is an upstairs and there's room for about 10 at the "sushi counter"), but on that particular evening, we sat down right away.

I guess the thing to do here is the rodizio (that's Portuguese for "all-you-can-eat"). You can order as many temaki rolls as you want, and then all of this other stuff comes with it, too. Tiny little fried spring rolls (veggie), guioza (pork dumplings), and a tray of assorted sushi-like (but kind of unidentifiable) items. And you can't forget about the near perfect and refreshing marinated cucumber salad (which I saw an entire family drown in soy sauce...gross!). But my advice is really to save room for the temaki rolls.

If you are a vegetarian, or if you don't eat raw fish, you are in luck here. There's grilled salmon, shimeji (mushroom), kani (fake crab), and pepino (cucumber) temaki. There are some weird choices, too...like mixing different fish with mayonaise, and even one with salmon, strawberries, and whipped cream. When I gave the sushi guy an interested look about the strawberry one, he shook his head at me in warning to stay away. I did.

There are also some combinations that come mixed with cream cheese. Unless you REALLY love cream cheese, either stay away or ask for "um poco de cream cheese"....just a little. They oblige, and it's actually pretty good. Like what you would get on a bagel, but wrapped inseaweed instead.

I really enjoyed (and am, in fact, craving right now) the straight up salmon and ginger, peixe branco (white fish with drops of lime, camarao (shrimp), and california roll (it's really pretty, too). Fresh, tasty, healthy.

***Only thing that weirded me out was that there was not one single Asian employee in the whole restaurant -- not even the guys making the temaki rolls! I made the comment to Janhavi, "I hope there's some really old Japanese man in the back telling everyone what to do in here!".

The service is quick and friendly. Can't wait to go back again.

Forneria Sao Paulo (Itaim Bibi)

Forneria Sao Paulo
Rua Amauri, 319
No website

I had been told that this place was kind of fancy for a pizza place, and Abby and I were freaking out just a little that our shoes wouldn't be up to par for an upscale SP crowd on a Saturday night. Not to worry, though...even though this hip and BUSY restaurant definitely attracted a trendy, young crowd, you can come as you are. Apparently, you can also bring your young children at 11 at night, too. And if you're 16 and your driver is with you, it's okay to hang out there late on a Saturday with a bunch of your high school friends.

Oh, and I don't think it's a pizza place.

I can't find a website, so you'll just have to go and check out the menu yourself. Not being a fluent Portuguese speaker (or reader, for that matter) I was looking for the PIZZA. But it seemed that there were just SANDWICHES. They are sort of like calzones, and there's 3 or 4 different kind of encasings for your 30 or so choices of "toppings". Being at the table with two vegetarians, we all opted to share two salads and one pizza-sandwich. The special salmon (grilled) salad was light and perfect. The pizza-sandwich split perfectly into 6 equal (if not small) pieces, but I really was missing a vat of marinara dipping sauce. Why can't this city get it straight that marinara sauce is delicious and should be put on everything Italian??! Especially something resembling a calzone. I am still on the search for a good red sauce to stain the front of my shirt as I slurp up spaghetti.

The prices were a little high, but the place is cool. Very modern...you feel hip just sitting there, like you are in on some cool little secret. It's a great energy, a wonderful buzz, and I am sure the place is packed until 2 am...we left just before midnight and there was a line out the door. (I also like that there's a Starbucks right across the street.)

Great dessert menu, too. We split a white chocolate mousse cake, which was served with fresh, warm chocolate sauce drizzled all over the top. I could have eaten the whole thing by myself (and then some) if there's hadn't been other people at the table digging in.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Cristallo (Vila Madalena)

Cristallo
Rua Wisard, 179
Vila Madalena
http://www.cristallo.com.br/

Janhavi and I ducked into this coffee shop/bakery to get out of one of Sao Paulo's summer rainstorms. I was just in the mood for some coffee, and she was hungry for a bit more. The place is actually kind of sterile and modern...not as comfy as I usually like my coffee shops...the black and white sleek decor was actually a bit of a turn-off.

Best things: Colher chocolate (chocolate spoons!) with your coffee and low-fat cappucinos.

Worst things: The staff let street kids in the store to bother patrons. There was some weird jam on Janhavi's sandwich. The decor.

In the end...with so many cute cafes in VM, I probably wouldn't stop in here again.

Pão: Padaria Artesenal Organica (Jardins)

Pão
Rua Bela Cintra, 1618
http://www.padariaartesanal.org/

Janhavi and I stumbled across this small organic bakery one Saturday on our search for a place to just "sit and have a cup of coffee". Unfortunately, the first time we went, all three TINY tables were taken, and it was just way too hot to wait or to sit outside. One woman said to us "it's the worth the wait." A few months later, we finally made it back, and it was totally was.

What's striking about this place is that it is SO small, yet it packs a really big punch. It's really as if you are in someone's kitchen, only it's a restaurant! When we went the second time, all three tables were free (they were full and people were hovering by the time we left), so we could enjoy our lunch at an actual table. I think that people probably take "to go" from Pao...and my guess is, because it's so small, that's exactly what they want you to do. (Side note: Challah available on Fridays!)

I had the sanduich queijo de cabra com tapenade de figo (goat cheese and fig spread sandwich) and Janhavi had the sanduich mozzarela de búfala, tomate assado e manjericão (buffalo mozzarella, tomato, and basil sandwich). When our orders came (both came warm, on buttered whole wheat bread), we were so jealous of each other's sandwich that we immediately went halvsies. Both were delicious, although I think Janhavi's simple sandwich outshined mine. There was something about the basil that was so fresh and different.

Janhavi took a slice of lemon cake to-go. It made for a delicious dessert a few hours later, when we needed something sweet. All of the baked goods looked divine, and there were even some little samples on the counter.

Bras (Moema)

Bras
Rua Grauna, 125
Moema
http://www.casabraz.com.br/index_braz.html

Bar Original (Moema)

Bar Original
Rua Grauna, 137

Moema

http://www.baroriginal.com.br/

Heading to this bar in Moema around 5:30 on a Friday with some friends from work, I had high hopes for what had been billed by one colleague (and many a Veja Magazine) as "the best choppe in Sao Paulo". Personally, I don't really get how one choppe can differ too much from another. But Felippe says it has to do with temperature, storage conditions, and shelf-life...and he should know :)

With friends who drink beer that way my friends drink beer, I knew the verdict would be in soon. They were not disappointed...and the beer (claro and escura) kept coming in that way that it only comes in Sao Paulo. The way that makes you ask yourself, "Did I order that?"

While some drank beer, others ordered Johnny Walker Red. By the bottle. Seriously. The cool thing about Bar Original is that you buy the bottle...drink what you can...and leave the rest there (with your name on it, on a shelf above the bar) for the next time you come in. Genius. And, if you are a Scotch drinker, economical.

Normally, I am not too into bar food...in Sao Paulo it tends to be all fried. But if the beer was the best, then I thought that surely the food would not disappoint. And it didn't. Here's the lowdown:

Croquete Original (Original Croquettes)

Although the term "Original" probably refers to the restaurant, it could also refer to the ingredients in these fancy little croquettes. The come stuffed with bits of salami and brie...and kind of reminded of some Eastern European dish my great great great great grandmother probably fried up in the shtetl...and I mean that as a compliment.

Piraja (I have no idea how this translates, but also some kind of croquette)
Also little croquettes, but stuffed with mandioca and carne seca (dried meat, sort of like a beef jerky, but tender). Tasty, if not a little strange. Didn't have the same zing as the Croquetes Originales, but a good compliment to the choppe.

Croquete de Bacalhau (Salted Codfish Croquettes)
Better than bolinhos. A new twist (can you see the croquete theme here?) on the bolinho de bacalhau standy, this croquete came stuffed with potato (I think it was potato, maybe it was mandioca?) AND salted cod. Just the right mixture to make it absolutely delicious, not disgusting.

Pastels
Small, but stuffed...you didn't have to go searching for the filling in these suckers. Recommended for taste and variety (shrimp, cheese, hearts of palm, or meat). A little something for everyone.

Bles D'Or (Moema)


Bles D'Or

Rua Tuim, 653

Moema

http://www.blesdor.com.br/

Cute little patisserie that makes you feel like you are in a Hollywood movie....about Paris. Nice selection of baked goods, delicious homemade breads (including whole wheat baguettes), and a tempting menu that touted 35-real sandwiches. I don't know what 35 reals could buy in a sandwich, but it's worth a visit back to find out. (Not everything on the menu was as expensive.) Go when there's good weather, because the patios are beautiful. Awesome photos (even in the bathroom), and beautiful decor, too. (I was especially impressed by the trash can in the women's bathroom. Very clever and classy.) Nice selection of gourmet cheeses, and beautiful looking desserts. My friend, Cristina, goes there all the time and LOVES it.